October 2011 archive

Edward Finney Spring Summer 12 Collection

When I first learnt the word “Design process” in my fashion school, I was a little upset. The reason I decided to move on from my world of Economics to the “oh-so-frivolous” world of fashion was to break away from the barriers of processes, and methods!

Well, the ghost followed me there too, but soon I realized how important this “PROCESS” was. It almost was standardization in itself.

My belief in it was reinforced when I met Edward Finney, a Central Saint Martins graduate, who has an impressive profile with an experience working with late Mr. McQueen, and Chittlebourgh & Morgan,Saville Row, and finally earning himself his due share as the Assistant Menswear Designer to John Galliano for the self admitted “4 best years” of his life.

Edward’s design process is simple and works beautifully for him.

An ardent reader, Edward chooses a muse, quite often out of the biographies he reads, usually a woman inspires Edward with her strong character and persona, and in return Edward returns the favor by researching her life more, which gives him his details, the colour story, the fabric board, all in all, his complete collection, which boasts of its excellent quality, and finishes.

“I like to design 3D more than 2D!The fact that I know how to cut my own patterns helps me change my design as I go along, and not restrict myself to what I drew on the page a few hours ago”, says this Hertfordshire born designer, before adding “All the products are made in Britain , and everything is hand finished which gives the collection the premium look, I hope to epitomize with my label”.

If his SS12/13 collection could speak to me, it would ooze out one word…well two actually ‘ Bespoke Tailoring‘.

“My experience as Assistant Menswear Designer with Galliano taught me a lot, about the fabrics, the cuts, the material and finishes, and I would be silly not to use all that learning. I rather work with fabrics I am confident of, and insist on working with the best fabric I can lay my hands on!”

The glamorous Alice de Janze is Edward’s muse for SS12/13, and he has yet again translated Madame Janze’s glamorous flapper style into his collection.

His usage of Tartans and dark colours have highlighted her seductive and notorious days in Kenya, while ensuring her eminent presence in that era prevails in his collection with special focus on drop waist seams, and how your eye is tactfully guided to the waist through beautifully shaped cutouts and immaculate usage of boning in the strapless dresses.

Well our tete-a-tete had to be wrapped as Mr. Finney was in the midst of organizing a fashion flash mob soon showcasing his “Bleeding Dress”, which has also been featured in his video, directed by Briona McArdle.

To say the least from the pictures, he did leave a mark, and he is definitely a designer to look out for next season.

You can see Edward’s works on his website: http://www.edwardfinney.com.

All Images: http://www.edwardfinney.com/

Rebirth of Paco Rabanne: Manish Arora

I went through a stage in my teens( seems so long ago now ☹ ) when I was obsessed with collecting the Paco Rabanne’s latest fragrances!

I just liked the sound of owning the perfume for some odd reason, and when you come from a country where part-time jobs were not as common for teenagers, and pocket-money was limited, you can imagine how long I had to save before I bought my beloved perfume( and let’s not forget how long I tried to last it) till I was left with an empty one, I just saved the bottled, in the hope to replace it soon!

Paco Rabanne is a Spanish designer but moved to France when he was young.

He studied architecture but went ahead and gained his popularity as (in)famous L’Enfant terrible (Terrible Child).

Clearly he had to translate his experience as an architect into fashion which came through his D.I.Y. Rhodoid dress.

Well I haven’t chosen to write about Paco out of the blue, but to highlight the new Creative Director Manish Arora’s first RTW SS12 collection for the global brand.

Manish Arora and I share the same Alma matter, so his name is associated with National Institute of Fashion Technology, just the way Jimmy Choo is to London College of Fashion and Gareth Pugh to Central Saint Martins.

Manish is known to be theatrical (very contrary to my design aesthetics), but what one would like to learn from him, is to perfect the art of using colours and materials!

No surprise he is with Paco Rabanne, giving the brand its self-proclaimed “Rebirth”.

Well, The collection is meant to be “Ready To wear”, and I hope most fashionistas are ready to wear a Paper fan like structure on their shoulder for an evening out with the girls, since that is exactly what Manish has as a finale for the latest collection, which may I add is the first collection after the break of 6 years since Mr. Rabanne resigned.

I love the lucidity and almost the snake-like pattern in which the plastic dresses have been linked in the hourglass highlighting pencil skirts and dresses, and the coral like surface on the iridescent Metallic peplum-ish dress, teaming up of sheer organza with the linked plastics.Well there are quite a few bits I like and well some (usually the end of the collection) which is too far-fetched for me!

But that is me!
I bet my friend, Mohit Rai (He is a stylist with Harper’s Bazaar, you see) will disagree and we will sit down with a heated debate which can be cooled only after we both are comforted with a chilled beer!

To each to his own!
Let me know what you all think of Manish’s latest do with Paco, would love to hear some feedback (Yes Including you MOHIT!)

Image Courtesy: www.style.com


Manish Arora.  Image Courtesy: www.style.com

All images are from : http://www.style.com

To see Paco Rabanne’s complete SS12 collection, please click here and to see the video click here

Ryan Gosling, the best Driver ever!

I know I should stop gushing about him, but anyone who has seen DRIVE, will love Ryan Gosling more!

Nicolas Winding Refn‘s Drive stars Ryan with Carey Mulligan as his lady-love, in this “teal blue” hued movie which was a treat to the eye…(err not including the innovative ways of killing people in the movie :) )

I must admit, I did not expect much when I walked in at the Corner House Cinema, Oxford Street, Manchester but I must admit the first 5 minutes of the movie were enough to glue me to my seat through out!

It had an 80′s pop synth feel to it, and I guess it owes that mood to one of the best soundtrack of the year (Only because I haven’t watched Swell Season,The movie,as yet).It is on repeat since the last few hours now! My “Real hero”!!

Plus the Neon Pink font used for the title and through out for the introduction/credits brought back visions of acid wash high waist jeans,back combed hair,leotards,graphic tee tied at the waist…Oh wait on…that is what is trending right now..isn’t it??!!

I guess 80′s will never die!